Ankle boots open the cold season: you start wearing them in September and they stay in the wardrobe until spring. They are also the most versatile footwear, because they look completely different depending on what you pair them with.
The main styles
- Chelsea boots: ankle height, elastic side panels, no laces. The easiest to wear and to combine.
- Heeled ankle boots: lengthen the silhouette and work when you need a more polished look.
- Worker boots: sturdy sole, bold look. Effective in contrast with feminine pieces.
- Western boots: pointed shape and tapered heel, with a recognisable character.
- Sock boots: hug the ankle and create a continuous line with trousers.
With jeans
The most common pairing, and where most mistakes happen. The rule of thumb: the narrower the jeans at the ankle, the chunkier the boot can be.
With skinny or tapered jeans you can wear worker boots or Chelsea boots with a substantial sole. With straight-leg jeans a slimmer style works better, so the fabric does not bunch above the shoe. With wide-leg or palazzo styles you need a heel to lift the hem off the ground, otherwise the silhouette shortens.
With skirts and dresses
With a short skirt ankle boots almost always work, ideally with some heel. With a midi skirt — the trickiest length — take care: if the boot ends exactly where the skirt stops, the leg looks cut in two. Better to leave a few centimetres of gap, or match tights to the boot colour for continuity.
With long dresses the boot stays mostly hidden: comfort matters more than the style.
Colour
Black and dark brown cover almost every situation. Beige and tan are more interesting because they lengthen the leg with light tights, but they need more thought when combining.
Materials
The material decides how the boot reacts to rain and cold.
- Smooth leather: the most hard-wearing. It handles cold and damp, cleans with a soft cloth and needs a nourishing cream twice a season.
- Suede and nubuck: sensitive to water, which leaves marks. Spray them with a protector before the first wear and brush them dry, never with a damp cloth.
- Patent leather: naturally waterproof and ideal on wet ground, but stiff and with little give. A damp cloth is enough to clean it.
For everyday wear in any weather smooth leather stays the safest choice; keep suede for dry days.
Three common mistakes
- The wrong size: ankle boots are often worn with thicker socks. Between two sizes, go up.
- A shaft that is too tight: if your calf presses against the edge, the style is not right — no material stretches enough.
- Soles that are too smooth: from October you also walk on wet ground. Check there is some tread.
How to tell if they fit
Try them on in the afternoon, with the socks you will actually wear. Then check three points.
- Instep: this is where Chelsea and sock boots cause most trouble. If there is pressure while you stand still the style is not for you; pressure that disappears as you walk is normal.
- Heel: a millimetre of movement is fine and settles after a few wears. If the heel lifts with every step, the boot is too big.
- Calf width: check it sitting down, with your leg at a right angle. That is when the calf widens and you find out whether the shaft is too tight.
Frequently asked questions
Do ankle boots stretch with wear?
Leather gives in width, never in length: if they are short at the toes, they will stay short.
Can I wear them with short socks?
Yes, as long as the top of the sock stays below the top of the boot, otherwise the edge rubs against the ankle.
Which heel height works for a full day on your feet?
Between three and five centimetres, wide or block: above five the weight shifts too far forward.
How should I store them at the end of the season?
Clean, dry and upright, with rolled paper inside the shaft so the leather does not crease at the ankle.
When to buy them
Autumn collections arrive in store between late August and September, when the size range is still complete. Waiting until November means fewer sizes on the most popular styles.
You can browse our boots and ankle boots collection and the season's new arrivals in the winter collection. If you are unsure about sizing, see our shoe size guide.